一般常態性工具就不列出囉~如色筆針線剪刀....大同小異
1.筆--因內衣打版講求尺寸精準,尺寸誤差控制在1~0.5mm之間,過粗的筆觸線內線外的誤差是不被接受的~早期設計師常使用工程用製圖筆,但須要常研磨筆尖較為麻煩,早已多改用0.3mm的自動鉛筆製圖.
2.捲尺/皮尺
3.曲尺--軟性可彎曲的量尺,便於測量各種曲線彎度.
- Sep 02 Sun 2012 20:10
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內衣打版常用工具
一般常態性工具就不列出囉~如色筆針線剪刀....大同小異
1.筆--因內衣打版講求尺寸精準,尺寸誤差控制在1~0.5mm之間,過粗的筆觸線內線外的誤差是不被接受的~早期設計師常使用工程用製圖筆,但須要常研磨筆尖較為麻煩,早已多改用0.3mm的自動鉛筆製圖.
2.捲尺/皮尺
3.曲尺--軟性可彎曲的量尺,便於測量各種曲線彎度.
- Sep 02 Sun 2012 19:41
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La Perla的內衣誘惑
- Sep 02 Sun 2012 01:46
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罩杯置物袋
- Sep 01 Sat 2012 12:15
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2013秋冬內衣趨勢
Interfilière AW13 trends: Evolution: the new beauty
10 April 2012
10 April 2012
Evolution: the new beauty
The hottest recession-proof things: Prettiness & Durability. Timeless lingerie every woman always wanted and will always be dreaming of. No trendy gags just for effect. Colours, materials, shapes all tested for timeless beauty. But never boring and not back to ‘safe’ classics. Precise in every detail, worth spending money on. The hottest word for seasons to come is CARING!
This is the trends theme Interfilière Paris has presented to us for the AW13 season, presented at the July 2012 show in Paris. The trends also report a comeback of the French lingerie style and brands are expected to avoid the ‘have-seen-before’, with stiff satin poly losing popularity to satin poly from Boselli.
The Interfilière AW13 trends are presented under four themes and one colour round-up:
The New Eve
Interfilière AW13 trend: The New Eve
This trend is a detoxification of lingerie: discarding everything that is used only for effect and start all over again. Lingerie as it should be: delightfully intimate and precious.
Intimate memories and forgotten skills re-interpreted by new technology. A big revival of the French style is incorporated this season as well as detailed, light, frivolous fabrics. Delicate powdery colours are featured with a hint of decadence.
The architectural mood and vintage meet in a luxury revival of genuine lingerie looks. Valenciennes bands used for linear detail on crepes, satin, and luxury loungewear knits - alongside diamante and pearl accents.
Arich brocade feel for lightweight shaping jacquards and interpretations in lace and super–flat low contrast embroideries.
After the lace archives, printer archives provide a plethora of ideas for new placements. Foulards are very important for lounge and beachwear also this season.
Look out for: Photographic images mix with hand-drawn lines.
Inspiration: The reign of Alexander McQueen directs the floral revival focused on timeless beauty.
Symbolism
Interfilière AW13 trend: Symbolism
The new blacks tell the story of the myriad of fantasies and dreams that are related to the mystique of the night.
When nature exudes its sweet romanticism and flowers metamorphose into erotic phantoms. In this world of delightful darkness seduction thrives on surprise and effects. The body is decorated and embellished to communicate desire at its most refined and sophisticated. Eroticism at its most sublime!
Placed digital printing combined with refined grounds and mixed with other techniques and surface effects for garment mixes. Artistic and magical interpretations of nature allowing painterly imperfections and rough/refined contrasts.
Look out for: Creatures of the night with festive interpretations of wing effects combining feathers and refined shiny accents.
Visionnaire
Interfilière AW13 trend: Visionnaire
Inspiration from earlier hotbeds of modernism: the twenties, fifties, sixties but now in the context of the growing need for humility with regards to resources. The focus is on using modern technology for inspiration for not only for comfort and construction, but also as an imaginary source. Pixels, fractals and 3D technology are a main focus of this trend.
Technology in the hands of stylists focused on a new direction for beauty.
New garment volumes are worth a study for homewear. Sculptural surface effect knits inspired by the artist Maya Lin and designs from Miyake and Mugler.
Reconstruction of the lingerie wardrobe. Combining optical perfection with super comfort. The new stretch fabrics have cosmetic qualities and interesting handle and surface texture. Lightweight and fine gauge remains the key to modernity followed by compact fabrics with effect and the comeback of glossy tricots with soft hand feel.
Look out for: New stretch fabrics and the comeback of glossy tricots.
Inspiration: Modern technology, Maya Lin and designs from Miyake and Mugler.
Playtime
nterfilière AW13 trend: Playtime
Dreaming of a world where the magic of transformation is reality? Then join the growing club of designers worldwide who are leading a new renaissance in design.
A world where the old classification codes no longer apply. Where the idea of hiding in your own cocoon is no longer a sign of weakness. Playfulness is no longer a synonym for immaturity and life accelerates: at home, on holiday … wherever there is a laptop.
Fun & simplicity with lots of dynamism. Dots, stripes and blocks are the icons of youthful pleasure that has no age!
Between grandma’s leftovers and the casual lifestyle: denim, marl jersey, rugged workwear and romantic remnants of crafts and folklore. Re-using and remaking leads to new classifications of loungewear.
Look at the world around us, spontaneous and free-spirited. First ideas for cruisewear take the sportstyle into Legoland and times-past when everybody was still playing.
Look out for: Dots, stripes and blocks
Inspiration: Times-past when everybody was still playing.
COLOURS
Interfilière AW13 trends: 2013-2014 Colours
‘Beauty is in everything and knows no boundaries, geographic or historical’.
This sums up the creative mood of the Interfilière colour experts which introduces the trend guide. Liberated from commercial constraints, the stylists expressed a strong love for colours that talk about emotion and, together with the fabrics, express the times we live in.
Nature, art, skill and artisanal interpretations are the underlying influences. Throughout this book, colours express our desire to participate in something worthwhile.
1. Antique Copper
2. Matt Bronze
3. VViolet de Mars
4. Black Forest
5. Burnt Earth
6. Wax
7. Brushed Vermeil
8. Whitened Lead
9. Ink
10. Storm
11. Coal
12. Pink Terracotta
13. Hydrangea
14. Cranberry
15. Pistachio
16. Lost Time
17. Heather
18. Silk
19. Angel Feather
20. Rice Powder
21. Strawberry Sherbet
22. PSCHITT !
23. SPLASH!
24. FLOC !
25. OUPS !
26. WIZZ !
- Sep 01 Sat 2012 11:52
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2014泳裝趨勢
Aquasonic
03 July 2012
High performance swimwear fabrics mimic the hydrodynamics of marine mammals by delivering compact and precise chlorine resistant, lightweight, and quick dry swimwear fabrics.
Surfaces are compact and smooth, matte and dull in touch enhanced through graphics applied with printing techniques.
High performance also features in fashion-led fitness swimwear, both in one and two pieces that deliver performance and support.
Key functions: Reduced drag and the ability to accelerate speed aided with creora highclo H-350S. Nano-technology hydrophobic finishes produces water resistant fabrics.
Garments: Competitive, fitness & triathalon swimwear. Aqua, gym, aero, underwater spinning with a strong signature for sport styling.
Themes: Glide – Strength – Compact – Brilliance – Speed – Support - Fun
Reduced drag and the ability to accelerate speed aided with creora highclo H-350S. Nano-technology hydrophobic finishes produces water resistant fabrics.
- Sep 01 Sat 2012 11:36
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2014內衣趨勢
Creora 2014 intimate apparel trends
10 July 2012
10 July 2012
Hyosung, one of the world’s largest producers of nylon, polyester, and spandex fibres, introduces its 2014 Creora Intimate Apparel trends, which includes its new dyeable elastane.
Creora Dyeable is engineered in a proprietary way to absorb dyestuff and deliver superior colorfastness compared to regular elastane. Fabrics made with this fabric are low heatsettable and moldable at lower temperatures, an eco-friendly answer to fashion and sport intimates.
Folly
10 July 2012
This trend resembles ‘time for fun’, releasing an energetic range colour and fabric textures. From bi and mono stretch all over lace to bright Mipan fine nylon yarns teamed with Creora Dyeable to maintain the vibrancy of the tones, the idea of this direction is to buck the mood of the global economy and feeling.
Playfully capricious, openwork fabrics create abstract effects while yarn dyed stripes play with contrasting tones and stitch effects for added detail. This lively offering is geared towards the young and the young at heart!
Garments: Basic intimates & sleepwear, as well as more fashion forward for day into evening wear.
Themes: Fun – Frivolity – Rebellious – Spirited – Colour – Zesty – Kitsch – Unique
Femme Fatale
10 July 2012
Sexy and seductive styling emerges as lingerie looks to the past and French lingerie is reworked in today’s modern fabrics combined with an edgier look. This is lingerie to be seen, with past silhouettes revised as structured bras, girdles and suspenders for fashion lingerie and fashion shapewear. Fabrics range from moulded stretch diaphanous lace to satin warp knits with clean cut finishing for a lacquered and leather look.
Black is key, with Creora intensifying black tones while abstract jacquards and bright matte synthetics create optical matte/glossy details. Soft stretch power mesh creates an edgier feel.
Garments: Decorative shapewear, structured bras, girdles, suspenders, French knickers and edgy basics
Themes: Sexy – Seductive – Erotic – Gothic – Ornate – Lacquered – Leather Look
Magical
10 July 2012
Fabrics are becoming lighter and resemble hosiery fabrics in a ‘dreamlike and delicious touch’. Compact and smooth fabrics appeal through different opacity and luster, from matte to semi-transparent.
Both synthetics and natural-based fibres are featured, with micro Modal adding to the super soft caress of veiled finishes, that when teamed with Creora eco H-550 compliments the sustainable story. A similar story features with Mipan regen recycled nylon for high vibrancy and colorfastness on the colour front with Creora Dyeable.
High-powered cotton touch, warp knits feature with clean cut and anti curl finish. Decorative optical jacquards and prints and stretch lace narrows. Despite the micro finesse of this delicate direction, it still maintains the high levels of performance expected from the range of elastane fibres from Creora.
Garments: All-day fashion shapewear – low, medium and firm control. Essential basics with a diaphanous edge. Seamless, featherweight intimates and Sleepwear
Themes: Light – All-day shaping – Sparkling – Hosiery Weights – Super soft – Perfect – Veiled
Radical
10 July 2012
What you see isn’t necessarily what you get as consumers demand more performance from their intimate apparel than just the obvious. Radical features the sculpting and shaping aspects of intimate apparel where Creora performance H-350 spandex/elastane for power stretch comes into play for all day shapewear.
The explosion of 24/7 shapewear is seeing different levels of performance combined with a growing interest in natural blends including cotton and high levels of spandex/elastane. Men’s shaping is also seeing a surge in interest on the intimate apparel front.
Intimate apparel basics include smooth and perfect fabrics ranging from featherweight through to heavier tricot, while jacquards play optically with matte/bright yarns for mock textural effect with Creora Dyable.
Garments: Modern all-day sculpting and shapewear for men and women: tummy, hips and butt. Essential basics with benefits from shaping through to cosmetic applications
Themes: Texture – Function – Performance – Structure – Wellbeing – Sculpting – Enhancing
- Sep 01 Sat 2012 10:51
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歡迎加入內衣設計行列
- Sep 01 Sat 2012 09:37
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Shock Absorber Run Bra
個人非常喜歡的內衣，設計與材質都是無懈可擊~
等我懷孕時要買來改成孕婦內衣，超級穩定與無比吸汗透氣材質，舒適又止滑~
天阿~有哪件孕婦內衣比的上(泣)...懷孕跟哺乳期是胸型最容易變形的時期~真的要用心照顧呢!
每個女生對內衣的要求都不同~對我而言，能讓胸型穩定又舒適的就是好內衣~^o^ b
- Sep 01 Sat 2012 09:09
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2013春夏內衣泳裝趨勢
- Sep 01 Sat 2012 09:04
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內衣的演進(二)
The Idiosyncrasies of Underwear - Part 2
31 August 2012
Gillian Proctor takes a look at lingerie's history, from the Victorian era to the present day...
The fashion period which developed the most extreme fashion statements and resulted in the most innovative, and frankly bizarre, inventions was the Victorian era.
The lesser endowed in the breast department were initially catered for with bust bodices, a sleeveless bodice displaying a series of tiered frills to supplement the existing chest. My favourite was the ‘lemon bust improver’, which, as the name suggests, were lemon shaped devices consisting of a steel bar with a metal spring which was ‘attached’ to the existing breast, forcing the spring forward to emulate a nipple!
In fact, proving that breast enhancement is not confined to the modern era, ‘false chest pieces’ (complete with nipple effect) date from as far back as the 18th century and pictured in cartoons from Les Arts Decoratives in Paris.
Another favourite Victorian invention was the rubber inflatable petticoat, an alternative to the crinoline.
The actual origins of the ‘bra’ as we know it are debatable. Figures of the Greek nymph Daphne dated to the fifth century depict a bra-like structure supporting the breasts, while Egyptian women of 300BC onward were largely bare-breasted but for a kalasiris, a rolled fabric tube worn below the breasts attached to suspender like straps which crossed the breasts.
There are numerous such examples from throughout history, but the origins of the bra are probably much more recent. The outbreak of WWI proved prohibitive for the corset, as steel for supports was in such short supply. Initially, alternative supports including canes were employed but to poor effect, and the American government pleaded with women to adopt the bra as an alternative, freeing up 28,000 tons of metal - enough to build two battleships!
Infamous WWI spy Mata Hari was famous for her jewelled bras. She was actual quite small breasted, but wore padded, heavily decorated bras and never removed them even during sex.
Paris Corsetiere Cadolle claimed to have developed the brassiere, or the ‘soutien gorge’, in the late 1800s. The Paris Exposition of 1900, along with displays of ‘articles of dishabille’, displayed a cloth brassiere, a Callimaste, as well as other inventions including The Invisible, the Mamellia, Cadolle’s Breast Girdle, the Cheeky, the Scientific and the Health Corset and the Expansible.
American Mary Phelps Jacobs, with the aid of her French maid, produced the first bra-like garment to gain widespread acceptance. This was a simple device formed by overlapping two handkerchiefs and some baby ribbon.
She sold the patent to Warners in 1913 for $1,500 and Warners went on to make an estimated $15million dollars from the design. Jacobs’s (or Caresse Colby’s as she renamed herself) design was the forerunner for the Kestos, possibly one of the best-known underwear examples which was widely worn.
In the 1920s, the desired silhouette was the boyish look. Attempting to emulate this styling, well-endowed women bound their breasts so they would appear flat-chested. The brassiere underwent numerous changes during this period but most significant was the containment and separation of the breasts.
The influx of new fabric and elastic innovations such as latex meant that ‘control’ and support became key in undergarments. The French even introduced a rubber girdle to encourage women to ‘sweat off’ those extra pounds.
Post WW2, British women flat-chested in comparison with their American counterparts, having suffered food rationing for so long. They were influenced by the Sweater Girls of the movie screen - Lana Turner, Gina Lollobrigida, Ava Gardner. At a lingerie convention in 1952 it was discovered that three out of five women attended were wearing padded bras.
The UK lingerie industry sprang into action. Spirella introduced their circular stitched bra, for example, while Jane Russell was notoriously dressed in her cantilevered bra designed by Howard Hughes (and inspired by the San Francisco bridge), resulting in a five-year ban for the movie The Outlaw, and making Russell’s breasts the most famous in Hollywood.
Another key innovation was the ‘Tres Secrete’, developed by Maidenform in the 1950s, which claimed to resolve all breast issues. This involved plastic cups which were inflated using a plastic drinking straw.
Fabulously, the small print warned that the cups should not be inflated at high altitude for fear of explosion!
The 1960s it was Burn your Bra, Rudy Geirnreich’s topless swimsuit, and the introduction of tights, coinciding with the demise of stockings and suspenders.
It was a time that saw big moves in the lingerie industry. Yves St Laurent’s African collection was the forerunner of Gaultier’s coned bras for Madonna.
Movies like Barbarella, and 2001, A Space Odyssey, influenced experimentation in materials and futuristic fashion styling from designers like Paco Rabanne. In the years that followed we saw the introduction of the see-through bra, Gossard’s Glossies, the Wonderbra, and the fitness craze nurtured by Jane Fonda and the Pineapple Dance Studios.
We have had corsets incorporating parts from a Harley Davidson (main article picture, left), chicken fillets, silicone gel breast implants, the development of the sports bra, underwear as outerwear styling, and Victoria’s Secret Million Dollar Bra. Meanwhile, the corset has made a come back, celebrities have launched lingerie lines, supermarkets sell lingerie, and cup sizes continue to expand.
A bra may appear to be a flimsy wisp of dalliance, but it is in fact a highly engineered garment subject to ongoing technology and innovation. Long may it dominate the world of underwear.
